The Mouse Test captures right-click and scroll input inside this pad only.
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Total clicks
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Double-clicks
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Suspected faults
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Scroll steps
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Polling Hz (now)
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Polling Hz (peak)
Check that your mouse works. Click over the diagram to test every button and the scroll wheel, catch a double-click fault or stuck button, and measure your mouse polling rate in Hz. Free, instant, nothing to install.
How the Mouse Test Works
Click each button over the diagram, scroll the wheel, and move the mouse around the pad. Every input lights up so you can confirm it works, while the counters catch double-click faults and estimate your polling rate.
1
Test the buttons
Left, right and middle (wheel) click over the mouse, plus the side back and forward buttons. Each zone lights up while held — a zone that never lights is a dead switch.
2
Catch double-click faults
Single-click slowly many times. If a worn switch fires twice from one press, the suspected-fault counter ticks up. On a healthy mouse it stays at zero.
3
Measure polling & scroll
Move the mouse quickly to read your polling rate in Hz, and spin the wheel to confirm scroll up and down both register. For click speed, try the click speed test.
What This Mouse Test Checks — and the Faults It Finds
A mouse has more failure points than most people expect. This test exercises each one so you can tell a real hardware fault from a driver, surface, or software problem before you replace anything.
Every button, including the thumb buttons. Left, right and middle (the wheel press) are the usual suspects, but many mice also have back and forward side buttons. If a zone never lights up when you hold it down, the switch or its solder joint has failed — that is hardware, not a driver setting.
Double-click faults (click chatter). The tiny mechanical switch under each button is rated for millions of clicks and eventually wears out. A worn switch "bounces" and sends two presses from one physical click. This test flags any two clicks that land closer together than a person can manage on purpose — around 60 milliseconds — which is the classic sign a switch needs replacing or the mouse is due for a warranty return.
Scroll wheel in both directions. A wheel that skips, jumps backward, or misses steps in one direction usually means a dirty or failing scroll encoder. Spin it slowly each way and watch the scroll-step counter climb smoothly.
Polling rate in hertz. This is how often the mouse reports to the computer — about 125 Hz on a basic office mouse and up to 1000 Hz or more on a gaming mouse. A reading far below the rating can point to a failing cable, a weak wireless link, or a slow USB port rather than the mouse itself.
Everything runs live in your browser, so you can repeat any check as many times as you like — handy when you are deciding whether a glitchy mouse is worth cleaning, re-plugging, or returning under warranty. If the buttons and wheel all pass here but the pointer still misbehaves in one program, the cause is more likely that app's settings or your mouse driver than the hardware.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I test if my mouse buttons work?
Click each button over the mouse diagram on this page — left, right, middle (the wheel), and the side back and forward buttons if your mouse has them. Each zone lights up while its button is held down, so a button that never lights up is a dead or unresponsive switch. Everything runs in your browser; nothing is installed and no data is uploaded.
How can I check for a double-click problem?
A failing mouse switch often registers two clicks when you clicked once, known as click chatter or a double-click fault. This test watches the time between presses of the same button and flags any pair that arrives faster than a human can double-click on purpose — around 60 milliseconds apart. Single-click slowly a few dozen times and watch the suspected-fault counter: on a healthy mouse it stays at zero.
What is mouse polling rate and how is it measured?
Polling rate is how many times per second your mouse reports its position to the computer, measured in hertz. Common rates are 125 Hz, 500 Hz and 1000 Hz, with higher meaning smoother, lower-latency movement. This test estimates it by timing how frequently the browser receives movement events while you move the mouse quickly, then shows the current and peak rate. Browser-based figures are an estimate and can read a little below the mouse’s rated Hz.
Does the mouse test save anything or work on a laptop trackpad?
Nothing is saved or uploaded — the test runs entirely in your browser and forgets everything when you close the tab. It works with a laptop trackpad too, though a trackpad usually exposes only left and right buttons and no separate scroll wheel or side buttons, and its polling rate reads differently from a dedicated mouse. For measuring how fast you can click rather than whether buttons work, use the click speed test.
Why is my mouse double-clicking on a single click, and can I fix it?
A mouse that double-clicks on one press almost always has a worn main switch. After millions of clicks the metal contact inside starts to bounce, sending a second signal a few milliseconds after the first. Cleaning around the button or blowing out dust sometimes helps briefly, and some gaming software adds a "debounce time" setting that masks it, but the real fix is replacing the switch (a solder job) or the mouse. If it is still under warranty, this test's suspected-fault counter is good evidence for a return. Confirm it here first — single-click slowly a few dozen times, and if the counter climbs on presses you made once, the switch is the culprit.
What polling rate should I use — is 1000 Hz better than 500 Hz?
For everyday use, 125 Hz is perfectly smooth and you would never notice the difference. For fast-paced gaming, 500 Hz and 1000 Hz cut the delay between moving the mouse and the cursor updating from 8 ms to about 1–2 ms, which competitive players can feel. Beyond 1000 Hz the gains shrink to fractions of a millisecond and mostly matter on very high-refresh monitors. Higher rates also use a little more CPU and, on a wireless mouse, more battery, so match the rate to what you actually do rather than chasing the biggest number.
What is the difference between polling rate and DPI?
Polling rate and DPI measure two different things. Polling rate, in hertz, is how often the mouse reports to the computer; DPI, or dots per inch, is how far the cursor moves for a given hand movement — the sensor's sensitivity. A high DPI makes the pointer fly across the screen with a small nudge; a high polling rate makes its motion feel smooth and immediate. This tool measures polling rate, not DPI. DPI is set in your mouse software or with a button on the mouse and is not something a web page can read.
Why does the polling rate read lower than my mouse's rating?
Browser figures are an estimate and usually read a little below the mouse's rated hertz. A web page only sees mouse-movement events the browser chooses to pass on, and the browser can group or cap them — often near your monitor's refresh rate — so a 1000 Hz mouse may report a few hundred hertz here. Move the mouse quickly and continuously across the pad to get the peak reading closer to the true rate. For an exact figure, a dedicated desktop polling-rate tool that reads the USB device directly is more precise than any browser can be.
Add This Mouse Test to Your Website
Put the Mouse Test on your own page — free, no sign-up, no watermark. It runs entirely in your visitors' browsers. Copy the snippet and paste it into your page's HTML.
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